We had planned our journey back as follows: by boat to Korfu. Then by plane to Athens. Stay there for one night and the next morning at 9 o'clock the plane to Amsterdam. Very simple, almost the opposite of our outward journey.

Every morning at about 10 o'clock we saw the hydrofoil coming from Korfu. But not the 4th of December. Tani went to the harbour to ask what time they expected the boat. "It won't come and the Kaliopi won't come either", they told him. The weather was to bad. At the bay of Sarande the sea seems to be calm, but at open sea it was to dangerous. There was a small ferry waiting in the harbour and the captain told maybe he should go to Kurfo within a few hours. We had to pass by at 1 o'clock pm. After having a small meal at Tani's parental home with salad, potatoes, lamb-meat, garlic, garlic, garlic and garlic we said goodbye to his mother and went to the harbour by taxi, because it was raining cats and dogs. Getting there the boat wasn't allowed to leave because of the weather. What do we have to do now?

The nearest airport is Ioannina in Greece; about a 2 hours drive from Sarande. We called Olympic Airways to cancel our flight from Korfu to Athens, otherwise they would be waiting for us over there. Then we booked a flight from Ioannina to Athens. Of course that cost us extra money. The plan would leave 7.30 in the evening. It was 2 o'clock now, so we thought we had plenty of time. No, in Greece it is one hour later, so we only had 4 and a half hours. We asked a friendly relative to bring us with his Mercedes to the Albania-Greek border. A more than one hour drive in a terrible rain in a car with steamy windows at winding roads. Overtaking vans, crawling up to the hills, were I wouldn't even dare overtaking a bicycle. We ran into a flock of about 400 sheep at one of those narrow roads. Blowing the horn and now and then pushing a sheep with the bumper we finally managed to pass the members of the same species I have tasted several times that week. After more than one hour with wet hands we arrived at the border. After another stamp in our passports we were allowed to walk to the Greek border. This was situated about 300 meters further on. Try to imagine this: a pouring rain, people walking with luggage through no man's land from one frontier to the other. What do you see? Yes, refugees. At least than was the feeling I got when I was walking there.

But in contrast to those people we could take a taxi to Ioannina after we showed our passports to the Greek customs officer. The taxi-driver told us he was only allowed to leave after approval of the customs officer. "They have already seen our papers", we told him. We had to do it again, otherwise he wasn't allowed to leave. Then there was a little misunderstanding about the price of the taxi. First we thought it would be 30 euro each, but it seemed to be 30 euro for both of us. Finally we took place in the taxi; of course a Mercedes. This time it was a second-hand Mercedes, but only 1 year old. The owner was very proud of it. Plenty of space and comfort and because the condition of the road was much better then we were used to the last week, we drove at a speed of 120-130 km/h. After about ten minutes the driver asked if we would like a special chewing-gum from Greece. Was this because of the garlic we had during our lunch and he definitely still could smell?

Within 40 minutes we were in Ioannina. We paid the tickets we reserved. We didn't have to pay the taxes because we already paid it together with our return-ticket a week ago. As already told we would leave at 7.30; an other flight, of Aegean Airways, would leave at 6.55. At 6.50 a lady of Olympic Airways called us. (I didn't say it stopped raining). She told our plane, that had to come from Athens, was delayed because of the bad weather and probably wouldn't even come at all. If we would like to book for the flight of 6.55? So within 5 minutes we had to return our tickets to OA and go to the counter of Aegean Airways. There we had to pay taxes so this flight cost us almost 160 euro. Through the luggage-check and boarding. It was a very small plane with 2 propellers and only 70 seats. A maximum speed of 480 km/h and you could enter the plane by using a small stair of only 4 steps. A rather primitive plane when you are used to the boeings. Near to Athens we fell into an air-pocket (our first time). A strange feeling, falling down several meters suddenly. When I heard the other passengers screaming I realised it wasn't the first time only for us. We safely landed at 8.00 pm.

In Ioannina they couldn't label our luggage that it would be automatically transferred to our flight to Amsterdam next morning. So we had to keep everything with us all night. First we had the intention to stay at the airport during the night. Because that would be 12 hours, we decided to take a hotel. Not the Sofitel in front of the airport, because a simple room costs about 200 euro a night. At a desk at the airport we booked a room somewhere in Athens. We took a taxi and we arrived there one hour later. Athens at night: still one big traffic-jam. The driver showed us several places of interest. From a distance we have seen the Acropolis. Athens is a very big and crowded place, but worth visiting an other time.

We went to bed at 12 o'clock, because we had to get up at 4. Have breakfast at 5 and have a taxi at 5.30. We would arrive at the airport to early, but you have to avoid the centre of Athens at 6 o'clock in the morning, otherwise you get stuck in the traffic. On our way to the airport the taxi-driver told us that because of a strike no plane would leave today. When we arrived at the airport we saw the word "CANCELLED" behind, we thought, every departure-time. After checking it seamed to be all the domestic flights that were cancelled and every second flight to other destinations. Fortunately our plane would leave in time.
After some shopping we passed the custom-house. They showed big interest in plastic bottles again. I had tow in my rucksack. They asked if they could have a look. Of course, if you would refuse they will have a look anyway. One bottle contained a dark liquid, home-made wine. That was ok. The second bottle contained a transparent liquid. That could be petrol or something like that. If it was allowed to open that bottle. Yes of course. The female customs officer turned the top of the one-and-a-half litre (water)bottle and smelled. At the look of her face I could see she didn't like raki, anyway not at that time of the day. We could pass. I think, however, this raki would be more dangerous than patrol, but fortunately they didn't think of that. I don't even want to think about leaving that nectar behind.

It was very busy in the plane , because many people booked their cancelled flight to ours. After waiting for half an hour for a lost passenger we could finally leave. The breakfast in the plane had the same quality as the lunch. Omelette with a sausage, mushrooms and a small tomato. On our flight to Kos we often had omelette, but I never knew they made it with eggs. It was very tasteful. We also had warm bread and a croissant, a piece of cheese spread, marmalade and Greek yoghurt. I don't really like yoghurt but my wife loves it. In this boeing also enough space for my legs. When we got of the plane in Amsterdam, we had to show our passports right away. We had never seen that before. Was it because of the bomb alert at Ikea? Our daughter sent us a sms that the sun was shining again in Sarande. Could it be true that, when you have forgotten you sunglasses (in this case my wife), the weather is always bad for sure?

After a small train journey to Amersfoort and than the bus which stopped near by our house, we were at house at 2 o'clock, dead-tired, but with a good feeling about everything. About the wedding, our son in law, his family, but also about all the experiences we had the last week.
One thing is very reassuring: within 2 years there will be an airport close to Sarande.
(note: the airport isn't there yet (end 2004), but they are still making plans.)